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Prada offers spare, cleansing looks at Milan Fashion Week

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Prada offers spare, cleansing looks at Milan Fashion Week
GLOBALTIMESPAKISTAN

The Milan menswear runway was full of spare looks for next fall and winter, as if the fashion world is taking a deep breath, to see what happens next.

The color of the season: Black. The silhouette of the season: slim or relaxed, but mostly tailored. Bags: Utilitarian. Shoes: Oversized and sole gripping. Still, all of this utility was punctuated with romantic, feminine and even sexy gestures.

Here are some highlights from the third day Sunday of mostly menswear previews for fall-winter 2023, as many big brands seemed to be hitting the reset button:

PRADA’S RETRO-FUTURISM

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The ceiling on the darkened Prada showroom rose to reveal industrial chandeliers as the first looks appeared on the runway: tailored, slightly blocky suit jackets with sharp, wing-like collars that flapped gently with each step, secured and cushioned by just a wisp of colorful knitwear.

The collars, reminiscent of the 1930s or 70s and in retro geometric prints, gave a romantic touch to an otherwise spare and cleansing collection by co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.

“There is no space for useless creativity,” Prada summed up backstage.

The sharp collars, which appeared also on cardigans, are detachable, giving garments a longer life, and utility. On the runway, they were sexily styled without shirts.

The pair continued their exploration of uniforms, the sort that exemplify the value of working and not projecting authority. In that vein, suede tunics with matching overcoats recalled an artisan’s apron, worn with a shirt and tie to emphasize the virtue of work, and over the season’s slim trousers.

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The clean looks and minimalist tailoring had an intentional retro-futuristic feel, that Simons defined as “very Prada, in my opinion.”

Puffer coats had a rotund shape. Quilted T-shirts kept the torso warm under overcoats. Shoes were thick-soled lace-ups with raised piping. Bags were slim document or computer bags, with a thermos slot.

Suiting was mostly black or gray, with separates providing color: trousers in red or green, cerulean blazers, yellow and pink cardigans.

Even the venue at the Fondazione Prada was stripped of artifice, down to the concrete floors and walls and ceiling, which dropped back down as the models left the runway.

Outside, hundreds of screaming K-Pop fans greeted the Enhypen band as they arrived for the show, and a few were rewarded with selfies afterward.

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SIMON CRACKER PAYS TRIBUTE TO VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

The designers behind the Simon Cracker brand paid tribute to Vivienne Westwood’s legacy during a runway show presenting their latest collection of upcycled garments.

“We are here thanks to her. She was the first to make garments from upcycling,” said Filippo Biraghi, who founded Simon Cracker with Simone Botte in 2010.

“We studied her, we wore her, we lived her and we feel allied,″ Biraghi said of the British designer who died last month at 81. “She used fashion to protest, as a language of protest, for her entire history.”

Following in Westwood’s upcycling footsteps, the designers collect unclaimed garments from drycleaners and textile remnants from producers to make their unique creations.

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In this punk-inspired collection, each garment is one-of-a-kind, promoting nonconformity. Caps served as epaulets on jacket shoulders; a mini-skirt was fashioned from tiered ruffles in the front and netting in the back; handmade blankets became overcoats. Knitwear was made from recovered yarn and in collaboration with designer Gaia Segattini.

In the spirit of Westwood, the show closed with a model swathed in a tulle garment with the words: “Demand the Impossible,” emblazoned on the front. The garment was a collaboration with Jamie Reid, the art director of the Sex Pistols, who donated clothes from his “Ragged Kingdom brand,″ for the final looks.

For the finale, all the models wore photos of Westwood around their necks. Biraghi, who wore a T-shirt picturing a joyful Westwood on the front, turned to reveal another image of her scowling on the back.

The designers said their messaging, one that has been with them since the brand’s inception, has grown more urgent, citing the danger to the planet and “the system’s mockery.”

“There is something wrong if you are not pissed off today,” Biraghi said.

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CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY’S IMAGINED WORLDS

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, the label of the self-proclaimed club kid and Scottish-born designer Charles Jeffrey, brought joy to the Milan runway with fanciful storytelling though knitwear, kilting and prints.

Jeffrey presented his “Engine Room” collection through three subcultures in a mythical floating city: workers, whose toil keeps the city aloft; posers, or former workers who now bask in luxury; and snakes, aka, the media. While other brands hewed toward the minimal, Jeffrey went maximal, with a focus on sartorial details and an explosion of color.

The workers were clothed in gray, black and white, faces smudged, with starry prints and clawed footwear. Posers burst with color, including graphic prints from the archives of the Scottish artist and playwright John Byrne, metallic accents and endearing knitwear with kwai detailing like hoods with ears. The snakes had a Goth edge, dark garments giving way to newsprint prints against a black-white-and-red (read) palette.

Jeffrey called the collection “a celebration of Scotland, workers and Renaissance people.

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Feroze Khan’s lawyer files defamation suit against Muneeb Butt

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Feroze Khan's lawyer files defamation suit against Muneeb Butt

Faique Ali Jagirani, Feroze Khan’s advocate, filed a defamation suit against actor Muneeb Butt saying that the actor had tried to bring disrepute to his firm.

Actor Muneeb Butt took to Instagram and alleged that the lawyer of Feroze Khan was trying to increase his followers on YouTube.

Jagirani has now approached the FIA for action against Butt for “defaming” him and his firm.

The complaint was submitted on Friday by Jagirani to the FIA’s cyber crime wing. “Mr Muneeb Butt who is working in showbiz industry is defaming my law firm, namely Coopers Law Firm, and myself as a lawyer, without any reason on various social media platforms such as Instagram. Such act of Muneeb Butt has violated by constitutional right saved under Article 14 of the Constitution of Pakistan of 1973, inviolability of dignity of men etc. as well his malafide intention with ulterior motives to defame me and my law firm,” he wrote.

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Motown’s Smokey Robinson, Berry Gordy celebrated at pre-Grammy gala

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Motown's Smokey Robinson, Berry Gordy celebrated at pre-Grammy gala

Smokey Robinson and Berry Gordy, the visionary creative duo behind the revolutionary Motown genre, saw their legacy play out onstage Friday at a pre-Grammy gala honoring their life’s work.

From Robinson’s “The Tracks of My Tears” to “My Girl” songs, Motown defined the 1960s and influenced scores of artists that followed.

Gordy’s now iconic Motown Records, which the 93-year-old founded in Detroit in 1959, also played a pivotal role in uniting Black and white music fans in a decade convulsed by racial divisions.

Robinson was only 17 years old when he was recruited to join the label, where the balladeer became a prolific songwriter and seminal figure of the early days of R&B and soul.

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“There had never been anything like Motown before Motown,” the now 82-year-old artist told AFP on the red carpet. “There will never be anything like Motown again.”

The star-studded gala that this year included Motown prodigy Stevie Wonder is an annual pre-Grammy tradition from MusiCares, the charitable wing of the Recording Academy that raises money to help musicians in need.

Friday marked the first time the show honored two artists, a decision MusiCares said was necessary to fete the two musical legends “of equal and parallel esteem.”

“Both loom so large in music, and their stories are so intertwined, that picking just one as the MusiCares Person Of The Year — an honor previously bestowed on Joni Mitchell, Quincy Jones, Aerosmith, and other luminaries — would be a half-measure,” the institution said.

‘Motown family’

Industry darlings turned out in full Motown swing with performers including the Four Tops, the Isley Brothers, Dionne Warwick, John Legend and Brandi Carlile.

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The Temptations opened the show with a rollicking rendition of their smash hit “The Way You Do The Things You Do” and later crooned “My Girl” as Gordy and Robinson flashed megawatt smiles and bopped along.

Sheryl Crow belted out Jackson 5’s “I Want You Back” in a feathered, sparkling minidress, and Jimmie Allen performed “Ain’t No Mountain High Enough” with Valerie Simpson, who co-wrote that hit, which Marvin Gaye and later Diana Ross made famous.

A trio of Best New Artist Grammy nominees — DOMi and JD Beck, Samara Joy, and Molly Tuttle — did a genre-bending medley of Motown classics.

“How in the world did I get to be in the Motown family? How in the world did I get a chance to have a catalog and be sitting here in front of my two amazing mentors?” said Lionel Richie in a heartfelt tribute.

“You guys mean the world to me,” he said before singing “Easy,” the beloved track he made famous with the Commodores in a performance that bought the room to its feet.

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Wonder had the room standing once again as he delivered a reggae-tinged version of “Tears of a Clown.”

“I wouldn’t be here” without Robinson and Gordy, said Wonder — the virtuoso and music luminary who auditioned for Motown at just 11 years old.

“I can never repay you,” he said. “Thank you, I love you, thank you, I love you.”

“We should write a song like that!”

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Legendary singer Malika Pukhraj remembered on 19th death anniversary

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Legendary singer Malika Pukhraj remembered on 19th death anniversary

The 19th death anniversary of legendary folk and ghazal singer Malika Pukhraj is being observed on Saturday, Feb 4.

She was given the title of Malika due to talent and popularity. Her best work includes ghazals such as “Abhi To Main Jawan Hoon”, “Mare Qatil Mare Dildar Mere Paas Raho”, “Lo Phir Basant Aaye” and “Piya Baaj Piyala Piya Jaye Na”, among many others. These songs are still famous amongst music enthusiasts in Pakistan.

Pukhraj was born in 1912 in Hamirpur to a family of musicians. She was named Malika by a spiritual guru while her aunt, who was also a famous musician, gave her the name of Pukhraj.

The singer had been interested in music ever since her childhood and wanted to follow in her family’s footsteps. She received her early music education from Ustad Ali Baksh Kasuri, the father of famous vocalist Ustad Bade Ghulam Ali Khan.

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At the age of nine, Pukhraj performed in front of a huge crowd at the coronation ceremony of Maharaja Hari Singh. He was instantly impressed by the young talent and appointed her as a court singer in his darbar where she served for the next nine years.

After that, Pukhraj began singing professionally. During the 1940s, she emerged as a big singer and her popularity peaked on both sides of the border. After the creation of Pakistan, she chose to settle in Lahore and restarted her career in here with Radio Pakistan, receiving a great response. Pukhraj also branched into folk singing alongside her classical music.

In 1977, the singer was invited by the Indian government (as she worked at All India Radio before Partition) and was awarded the Legend of Voice Award. Following that, in 1980, Pukhraj was given the Pride of Performance Award by the government of Pakistan as well.

Pukhraj passed away in Lahore on Feb 4, 2004. She was survived by her daughter Tahira Syed, who is also an accomplished singer herself.

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