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New York Fashion Week: Prabal Gurung explores impermanence

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New York Fashion Week: Prabal Gurung explores impermanence

Does a butterfly know it was once a caterpillar? How do we fill those fleeting moments between beginning and end, joy and despair?

With moody luxury clothes, of course.

Prabal Gurung was thinking deep this season. He installed a mirrored square runway reflecting an opulent blue light display at the main branch of the New York Public Library for a fashion week show Friday exploring the Buddhist concept of “anichya,” or impermanence.

In butterfly motifs, wool jackets and hues of vermilion, saffron, burgundy and dusty pinks, Gurung was thinking of his homeland, Nepal, where he hasn’t been since before the pandemic. He was motivated by a 10-day meditative retreat he recently experienced to “silence everything.”

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“In Nepal, we talk about it all the time, what is present and how soon it can go,” he told The Associated Press in a backstage interview. “And there’s actually an optimism to that, especially during these challenging times.” 

The idea, in part, was finding hope “in the dark places,” he said. “There’s light after darkness.”

His silhouettes were sharper and longer this time around. His asymmetry challenged the idea of harmony. He draped softly and provided sharp angles at the same time. There were fluid, gliding skirts, wool jackets and glitzy golds and crystals.

In short, Gurung explained, New York Fashion Week for him was a “magical, mystery journey. An inward spiritual journey” taken at night back home in Nepal.

The Prabal Gurung collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Friday, Feb. 10, 2023, in New York. (AP Photo)

The Prabal Gurung collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Friday, Feb. 10, 2023, in New York. (AP Photo)

Moody, yes, but hopeful in turquoise and emerald silk organza, a black leather cropped jacket with a pink shearling collar and his butterfly print in a high-low, high-neck dress of black and white, and another in sheer red and black with sexy cutouts at the hip.

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There was an oversized sweater in an ivory and yellow butterfly knit and a pink and scarlet embroidered cocoon coat.

“But there’s a lot of strength to it,” Gurung said.

All grew from the silence on his 10-day vipassana retreat, where reading, phones and exercise were banned. On the third day, a painted lady butterfly landed on his window, “and it gave me something to ponder.”

Having grown up with “impermanence,” Gurung said, he wanted to embrace the notion that nothing is fixed but constant shifts need not be feared. They must me embraced, he said, and he’s got just the right clothes for the job.

Kelsea Ballerini, who stunned in a yellow gown by Gurung at the Grammys, was among his front row guests. She was accompanied by Becky G and Alyah Chanelle Scott.

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PM Shehbaz Shahrif says prayers at Masjid-e-Nabvi (PBUH)

PM Shehbaz Shahrif says prayers at Masjid-e-Nabvi (PBUH)

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PM Shehbaz Shahrif says prayers at Masjid-e-Nabvi (PBUH)

Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif said Isha prayer and nawafil at Riazul Jannah in Masjid-e-Nabwi (Mosque of the Prophet) during his visit to perform Umrah on Saturday.

Earlier, he visited the Roza-e-Rasool (Prophet Muhammad PBUH). He prayed for the development and prosperity of the country, as well as for the Muslims of Palestine and Indian Occupied Kashmir.

Punjab Chief Minister Maryam Nawaz also visited the Roza-e-Rasool during and prayed for the progress and prosperity of the country.

Madina Governor Prince Salman Bin Sultan welcomed Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif on arrival in the holy city.

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Read more: PM Shehbaz touches down in Saudi Arabia on a three-day official visit

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Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

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Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

Florals bloomed on the catwalk at Giorgio Armani on Sunday, adorning winter outfits and accessories as the veteran Italian designer presented his latest collection for his main line at Milan Fashion Week.

Armani, affectionately known as King Giorgio in Italy, opened the autumn/winter 2024 womenswear show, called “Winter Flowers”, with fluid looks in light grey and brown – jackets and trousers, accessorised with floral blue scarves or sashes.

The floral theme was omnipresent in the show with floral prints or embroidery adorning jackets, dresses, blouses, hats and bags.

Floral prints or embroidery in pink, blue and green added colour to dark creations in blue or black.

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“The flowers are a sign of a better season coming and I really liked the contrast – there are no flowers in winter, I created them,” Armani, 89, told reporters.

For the evening, sequined floral embroidery shimmered on jackets, sheer tops and dresses.

Armani closed the show with a selection of strapless frocks with sparkling flower decorations.

The designer presented the latest collection for his second line, Emporio Armani, on Thursday.

Milan Fashion Week runs until Monday, with editors and buyers then heading to Paris for the last leg of the month-long seasonal catwalk calendar.

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Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

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Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

Ami designer Alexandre Mattiussi added a contemporary flair to classic bourgeois styles for his fall/winter collection, presented on the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week.

Men and women models marched out of giant double doors — the set was a towering building facade — parading long tailored coats, fitted suit jackets and glittering tops.

The idea was to evoke life in a Paris apartment building, Mattiussi explained after the show, when he was swarmed by guests.

“There was the idea of doing something very sophisticated, very evening-like,” he said.

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Dressier looks included a trim, fake-fur top with three-quarter-length sleeves, a shimmering gold dress with plunging V-neck, and for men, a sheer grey tank top paired with high-waisted trousers.

Models included actors Diane Kruger, Laetitia Casta, Lou Doillon, Andres Velencoso and Audrey Marnay — prompting murmurings of surprise from the audience as they walked by.

A winner of the French fashion prize Andam, Mattiussi founded the fast-growing label Ami in Paris in 2011. Within four years, the brand opened a store in Tokyo, followed by Beijing in 2018 and New York in 2021.

Paris Fashion Week’s fall/winter menswear shows run through Jan 21, and include presentations from some of the industry’s largest brands, including LVMH, opens new tab labels Dior and Louis Vuitton, as well as Hermes, opens new tab, Valentino and Balmain, along with dozens of smaller labels including Sean Suen and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi.

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