Gucci opens Milan Fashion Week with De Sarno’s dressy looks for men

Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno kicked off Milan Fashion Week with a lineup of refined tailoring for men, adding touches of sparkle to a somber color palette for his aesthetic reset of the Kering-owned label.

Models strode down a sparse, concrete runway on chunky-soled loafers, parading floor-sweeping overcoats with long slits up the back, double-breasted suit jackets stripped of buttons and trousers cut above the ankles.

Accessories included shiny Jackie handbags in burgundy, beige or pea green — often clutched with matching gloves — and chunky jewellery worn over bare chests.

De Sarno’s second catwalk outing comes as products from his debut collection, presented in September, begin to fill stores, marking the label’s turn into pared-down, polished looks, a departure from the flamboyant styles of previous designer Alessandro Michele.

Show notes signed by the designer mentioned real life, irreverent glamour and simplicity.

De Sarno’s styles hit the red carpet earlier this week, including a shimmery, floor-length gown in bright green worn by Taylor Swift at the Golden Globe Awards.

The style reset serves as the foundation of turnaround efforts overseen by longtime Kering executive Jean-Francois Palus, who has stepped in as Gucci chief executive officer.

Gucci’s outing marked the first of dozens of shows and events taking place in the Italian fashion capital through Jan 16, including from top names like Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Giorgio Armani.

It comes as the luxury industry faces slowing demand for high-end fashion due to rising costs of living, with shares of Burberry dropping sharply on Friday after the British company, which is also undergoing a brand overhaul, lowered guidance for the second time in three months.