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Men’s fashion week goes live in Milan, buoyed by upbeat sales

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The return of Gucci to the menswear catwalk calendar, robust sales of Italian fashion and a farewell to the pandemic-imposed trend of virtual shows — it s all systems go for men s fashion week in Milan opening Friday.

Promising spectacle and optimism after a year in which sales of Italian fashion showed the strongest growth of the last 20 years, presentations for Fall-Winter 2023/2024 men s collections run until Tuesday.

Of the 79 shows, only four are digital, a holdover from the debilitating pandemic period that sent sales plunging and brought a halt to live runway shows.

Nothing replaces “the live experience, the frenzy, the expectation, the applause, the top models parading on the catwalk and the powerful music,” fashion consultant Elisabetta Cavatorta told AFP.

Most anticipated is fashion powerhouse Gucci which is putting on a menswear only show for the first time in three years.

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It will also be the first since artistic director Alessandro Michele s surprise departure in November.

New direction at Gucci?
With bold, colourful collections seeped in the 1970s, Michele provided a new lease on life after being tapped in 2015 to revive sales at the storied brand with the world-famous stripe logo in green and red.

While sales exploded by 44 percent in 2018 for Kering s flagship brand, growth has lagged competitors in the last two years.

“It remains to be seen whether Alessandro Michele s departure initiates a change of direction for the fashion house,” Cavatorta said.

Alessandro Michele left Gucci in November and a successor to the artistic director has not yet been named

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As to who will take over the reins at Gucci, the fashion world awaits news of Michele s successor with bated breath.

Soaring revenues

Armani, Prada, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Zegna are among the big labels set to unveil men s collections in the Italian fashion capital.

But there have been defections including Versace, which plans to show its men s and women s collections together in Los Angeles on March 10.

Despite the war in Ukraine and the impact of the energy crisis on an energy-intensive fashion supply chain, sales of Italian fashion last year rose 16 percent to 96.6 billion euros ($104.4 billion).

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Big labels like Giorgio Armani have answered the call for live men s shows at Milan Fashion Week

“This is the highest revenue in the last 20 years,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber, at a presentation ahead of the shows last month.

Inflation has had an impact, as Italian fashion prices rose by about nine percent in 2022, but their increase is “a positive sign that closes a year marked by dramatic events and difficult times,” Capasa added.

Exports of “Made in Italy” fashion climbed 18.7 percent in the first nine months of last year, driven by demand in the United States and the Gulf countries where exports both soared by more than 50 percent.

Sales to China grew more moderately, at 18.8 percent, while exports to Russia fell by 26 percent, in the wake of the invasion of Ukraine.

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But one area in which the impact of the Covid-19 crisis will still be felt in Milan is the absence of Chinese buyers.

Despite the lifting of coronavirus-related health restrictions by authorities in Beijing, the number of buyers who will travel to the city for the shows will be “limited”, Capasa said.

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Burt, the huge Australian crocodile who had a cameo in ‘Crocodile Dundee,’ dies at 90

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Burt, the huge Australian crocodile who had a cameo in 'Crocodile Dundee,' dies at 90

Burt, the huge crocodile that rose to fame with a cameo in the movie “Crocodile Dundee” and continued to impress visitors with his fiery temper and commanding presence, has died.

Burt died over the weekend, the Crocosaurus Cove reptile aquarium in Darwin, Australia, said. He was at least 90 years old.
“Known for his independent nature, Burt was a confirmed bachelor — an attitude he made clear during his earlier years at a crocodile farm,” Crocosaurus Cove wrote in social media posts.

“He wasn’t just a crocodile, he was a force of nature and a reminder of the power and majesty of these incredible creatures. While his personality could be challenging, it was also what made him so memorable and beloved by those who worked with him and the thousands who visited him over the years,” the aquarium wrote.

A saltwater crocodile, Burt was estimated to be more than 5 meters (16 feet) long. He was captured in the 1980s in the Reynolds River and became one of the most well-known crocodiles in the world, according to Crocosaurus Cove.

The 1986 movie stars Paul Hogan as the rugged crocodile hunter Mick Dundee. In the movie, American Sue Charlton, played by actress Linda Kozlowski, goes to fill her canteen in a watering hole when she is attacked by a crocodile before being saved by Dundee.

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Burt is briefly shown lunging out of the water.

But the creature shown in more detail as Dundee saves the day is apparently something else. The Internet Movie Database says the movie goofed by depicting an American alligator, which has a blunter snout.

The Australian aquarium where Burt had lived since 2008 features a “Cage of Death” which it says is the nation’s only crocodile dive. It said it planned to honor Burt’s legacy with a commemorative sign “celebrating his extraordinary life and the stories and interactions he shared throughout his time at the park.”

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Marianne Jean-Baptiste tests our limits of empathy in ‘Hard Truths’

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Marianne Jean-Baptiste tests our limits of empathy in 'Hard Truths'

Of all the movie protagonists you might have seen this year, none is quite like Marianne Jean-Baptiste’s Pansy in Mike Leigh’s “Hard Truths.”

Pansy, a middle-aged woman in contemporary London, is foul-tempered from beginning to end. She spends her days in evident pain that she unleashes upon all those around her, including her husband Curtley (David Webber), her 20-something son Moses (Tuwaine Barrett) and most anyone else she encounters. Her venom might fall on a supermarket cashier or a furniture-shopping couple who dare to put their feet up on an ottoman. Heaven help the man who wants her parking spot.

For everyone, Pansy is a test. She tests the patience and empathy of her family, just as she does the viewer. She’s not an antihero, she’s anti-everything.

“The world is full of Pansys. People live with other people’s conditions,” Jean-Baptiste says. “Often I’ve met people who have just been enraged, because you didn’t see them in the car park pulling into the space. You go: It can’t just be about me. How did you get that angry about something so stupid? You don’t know what they’re going through or how they got there.”

“Hard Truths,” which will open nationwide in theaters Jan. 10, never supplies any answers. Instead, it unfolds as a cantankerous character study, led by Jean-Baptiste’s compellingly prickly Pansy.

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The performance has earned Jean-Baptiste her best reviews since her last film with Leigh: “Secrets & Lies,” nearly 30 years ago. For that film, Jean-Baptiste became the first Black British actress nominated for an Academy Award. Her performance in “Hard Truths” has been just as celebrated, earning best actress from both the New York Film Critics Circle and the Los Angeles Film Critics Association. Three decades later, Jean-Baptiste could be heading back to the Oscars.

“You sit down with Marianne a hundred years later from ‘Secrets and Lies,’ in which she played a very intelligent young woman, and Marianne has now moved on in life,” Leigh says. “We love each other because she’s very, very funny. So sitting down with her ability to be real and profound but also grotesque, that, alone, points me in the direction of possibility.”

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‘Sonic 3’ bests ‘Mufasa: The Lion King’ at the box office

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'Sonic 3' bests 'Mufasa: The Lion King' at the box office

In the holiday season battle of big-budget family movies, Paramount Pictures’ “Sonic the Hedgehog 3” sped past the Walt Disney Co.’s “Mufasa: The Lion King” to take the top spot at the box office ahead of the lucrative Christmas corridor in theaters.

“Sonic the Hedgehog 3” debuted with $62 million in ticket sales over the weekend, according to studio estimates. With strong reviews (86% fresh on Rotten Tomatoes) and a high score from audiences (an “A” on CinemaScore), “Sonic 3” is well positioned to be the top choice in cinemas during the busiest moviegoing period of the year.

It was telling of some wider trends that “Sonic 3” — made for $122 million — bested one of Disney’s top properties. Videogame adaptations, once among the most derided movie genres, have emerged as one of the most dependable box office forces in recent years. The two previous “Sonic” movies together grossed more $700 million worldwide and the third installment appears likely to do better than both of them. A fourth “Sonic” movie is already in development.

Though “Mufasa’s” reviews were poor (56% fresh on Rotten Tomatoes), audiences gave it an “A-” CinemaScore.

“Sonic 3” nearly doubled the haul for “Mufasa,” which cost more than $200 million to make. Disney could look to $87.2 million in international sales to help make up the difference.

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The third “Sonic” will rollout in most overseas markets in the coming weeks.
In director Jeff Fowler’s “Sonic 3,” Ben Schwartz returns as the voice of the hedgehog, alongside Tails the Fox (Colleen O’Shaughnessey), Knuckles the Echidna (Idris Elba) and Jim Carrey in scene-stealing dual roles as Dr. Robotnik and his grandfather.

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