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Men’s fashion week goes live in Milan, buoyed by upbeat sales

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The return of Gucci to the menswear catwalk calendar, robust sales of Italian fashion and a farewell to the pandemic-imposed trend of virtual shows — it s all systems go for men s fashion week in Milan opening Friday.

Promising spectacle and optimism after a year in which sales of Italian fashion showed the strongest growth of the last 20 years, presentations for Fall-Winter 2023/2024 men s collections run until Tuesday.

Of the 79 shows, only four are digital, a holdover from the debilitating pandemic period that sent sales plunging and brought a halt to live runway shows.

Nothing replaces “the live experience, the frenzy, the expectation, the applause, the top models parading on the catwalk and the powerful music,” fashion consultant Elisabetta Cavatorta told AFP.

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Most anticipated is fashion powerhouse Gucci which is putting on a menswear only show for the first time in three years.

It will also be the first since artistic director Alessandro Michele s surprise departure in November.

New direction at Gucci?
With bold, colourful collections seeped in the 1970s, Michele provided a new lease on life after being tapped in 2015 to revive sales at the storied brand with the world-famous stripe logo in green and red.

While sales exploded by 44 percent in 2018 for Kering s flagship brand, growth has lagged competitors in the last two years.

“It remains to be seen whether Alessandro Michele s departure initiates a change of direction for the fashion house,” Cavatorta said.

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Alessandro Michele left Gucci in November and a successor to the artistic director has not yet been named

As to who will take over the reins at Gucci, the fashion world awaits news of Michele s successor with bated breath.

Soaring revenues

Armani, Prada, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Zegna are among the big labels set to unveil men s collections in the Italian fashion capital.

But there have been defections including Versace, which plans to show its men s and women s collections together in Los Angeles on March 10.

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Despite the war in Ukraine and the impact of the energy crisis on an energy-intensive fashion supply chain, sales of Italian fashion last year rose 16 percent to 96.6 billion euros ($104.4 billion).

Big labels like Giorgio Armani have answered the call for live men s shows at Milan Fashion Week

“This is the highest revenue in the last 20 years,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber, at a presentation ahead of the shows last month.

Inflation has had an impact, as Italian fashion prices rose by about nine percent in 2022, but their increase is “a positive sign that closes a year marked by dramatic events and difficult times,” Capasa added.

Exports of “Made in Italy” fashion climbed 18.7 percent in the first nine months of last year, driven by demand in the United States and the Gulf countries where exports both soared by more than 50 percent.

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Sales to China grew more moderately, at 18.8 percent, while exports to Russia fell by 26 percent, in the wake of the invasion of Ukraine.

But one area in which the impact of the Covid-19 crisis will still be felt in Milan is the absence of Chinese buyers.

Despite the lifting of coronavirus-related health restrictions by authorities in Beijing, the number of buyers who will travel to the city for the shows will be “limited”, Capasa said.

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Young Russians dance to K-pop and watch anime amid Asian culture boom

Young Russians dance to K-pop and watch anime amid Asian culture boom

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Young Russians dance to K-pop and watch anime amid Asian culture boom

 A few years ago, Karina Marakshina had to explain what K-pop was when asked to describe the musical style of her Moscow dance studio. Now she says she hears it blasting out from nearly every mall where she shops.

Russia shares a lengthy border with China and has long fostered cultural ties with East Asia. But as sanctions have made it harder to access Western cultural products such as films and music, younger Russians in particular are turning to countries like South Korea, Japan and China for entertainment.

Russian fans no longer have to travel to Japan to attend an anime festival.

More than 1,000 cosplayers dressed in purple wigs and traditional kimonos and brandishing fake swords turned up at a festival last November in Moscow, roaming the stalls of local vendors to purchase trinkets from their favourite Japanese animations.

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Marakshina’s K-pop dance school, GSS Studio, started in 2016 with only two groups practising in halls rented by the hour. It now has thousands of students practicing in three big studios in Moscow, and more in other cities.

GSS also hosts large-scale events such as an annual student concert and a dance “battle” with prizes for winners, and even organises tours to South Korea for the biggest K-pop enthusiasts.

“All the teenagers I talk to are into Asia,” says Marakshina. “K-pop is everywhere now, and it’s only gaining momentum.”

‘TOGETHERNESS’

Polina Ivanovskaya, a choreographer who has worked with GSS for over five years, recently led a class with more than a dozen young dancers in a Moscow studio, where a two-hour trial session costs 600 roubles ($6.50).

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“What I like about this (dance) trend is that you dance as a whole group,” she says. “You feel the togetherness of a group of people.”

The 22-year-old says the studio has experienced a boom in interest as the music and dance style becomes more visible in Russia.

“It’s gotten so widespread because a lot of K-poppers started going out on the street to film (music videos),” Ivanovskaya says.

Several mesmerised school-age girls looked on as eight female dancers mouthed along to girl group MiSaMo’s “Do not touch” during a video shoot held in the food plaza of a Moscow shopping mall in January.

Another K-pop dancer, Madina, recently shot a music video in an empty parking garage with four other members of the group Snaky, the troupe clad in workmen’s beige coveralls.

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Dancing connects her to “the inner life of the idols”, Madina says during a break from shooting, referring to K-pop stars. “It’s like you’re part of this community.”

 A few years ago, Karina Marakshina had to explain what K-pop was when asked to describe the musical style of her Moscow dance studio. Now she says she hears it blasting out from nearly every mall where she shops.

Russia shares a lengthy border with China and has long fostered cultural ties with East Asia. But as sanctions have made it harder to access Western cultural products such as films and music, younger Russians in particular are turning to countries like South Korea, Japan and China for entertainment.

Russian fans no longer have to travel to Japan to attend an anime festival.

More than 1,000 cosplayers dressed in purple wigs and traditional kimonos and brandishing fake swords turned up at a festival last November in Moscow, roaming the stalls of local vendors to purchase trinkets from their favourite Japanese animations.

Advertisement

Marakshina’s K-pop dance school, GSS Studio, started in 2016 with only two groups practising in halls rented by the hour. It now has thousands of students practicing in three big studios in Moscow, and more in other cities.

GSS also hosts large-scale events such as an annual student concert and a dance “battle” with prizes for winners, and even organises tours to South Korea for the biggest K-pop enthusiasts.

“All the teenagers I talk to are into Asia,” says Marakshina. “K-pop is everywhere now, and it’s only gaining momentum.”

‘TOGETHERNESS’

Polina Ivanovskaya, a choreographer who has worked with GSS for over five years, recently led a class with more than a dozen young dancers in a Moscow studio, where a two-hour trial session costs 600 roubles ($6.50).

Advertisement

“What I like about this (dance) trend is that you dance as a whole group,” she says. “You feel the togetherness of a group of people.”

The 22-year-old says the studio has experienced a boom in interest as the music and dance style becomes more visible in Russia.

“It’s gotten so widespread because a lot of K-poppers started going out on the street to film (music videos),” Ivanovskaya says.

Several mesmerised school-age girls looked on as eight female dancers mouthed along to girl group MiSaMo’s “Do not touch” during a video shoot held in the food plaza of a Moscow shopping mall in January.

Another K-pop dancer, Madina, recently shot a music video in an empty parking garage with four other members of the group Snaky, the troupe clad in workmen’s beige coveralls.

Advertisement

Dancing connects her to “the inner life of the idols”, Madina says during a break from shooting, referring to K-pop stars. “It’s like you’re part of this community.”

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Born in favelas, Brazilian funk gets swank and goes global

Born in favelas, Brazilian funk gets swank and goes global

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Born in favelas, Brazilian funk gets swank and goes global

Born in impoverished favelas, Rio de Janeiro funk music has emerged as a global phenomenon, embraced by superstars from Anitta to Beyonce and starring in museum shows – though it still faces stigma in Brazil.

Blending hip-hop and electronic music with Afro-Brazilian beats, funk emerged in the late 1990s in Rio, fuelling massive, all-night parties in the favelas, or slums, before spreading to other Brazilian cities and beyond.

Now, funk is having a moment.

Beyonce sampled Brazilian funk legend O Mandrake for “Spaghettii”, a track on “Cowboy Carter,” the hit album she released last month.

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Anitta, the Rio-born sensation who has done more than anyone to take the genre global, has her own new album coming out Friday, “Funk Generation.”

Fellow funk star Ludmilla performed this month at Coachella, the high-profile music festival in California.

With museum expos and even an artist-in-residence program dedicated to the genre, funk is suddenly everywhere.

“Funk is a source of self-esteem for the favelas,” says writer Taisa Machado, founder of online platform Afrofunk Rio.

“Those of us who work with funk always knew its power, its musical and cultural quality. We’ve been waiting for this moment,” she tells AFP.

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FROM STREET TO MUSEUM

In Lapa, a trendy nightspot in central Rio, a dozen youths from the favelas and city outskirts are rehearsing their final show for #estudeofunk, a residency programme at the Fundicao Progresso cultural centre.

Four girls in tight-fitting athletic gear and streetwear are practicing their dance moves under the watchful eye of their director.

The goal is to “professionalize” their knowledge and turn their passion into a marketable skill, says the woman behind the project, Vanessa Damasco.

“I want to be able to make a living from my music, my art,” says funk singer Gustavo de Franca Duarte after rehearsal.

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The 35-year-old father of four is a night watchman. But Duarte’s dream is to make it as “MC Gut Original” – his stage name.

Things have also gotten funky at the Rio Museum of Art, which is currently hosting an exhibit with hundreds of photographs, paintings, videos and installations devoted to the music and the iconic dance parties it fuels, known as “baile funk”.

The show, which has drawn large crowds, also highlights key moments in the genre’s mainstream arrival, like when Olympic medallist Rebeca Andrade, Brazil’s most famous gymnast, used it in the soundtrack for her floor routine at the Tokyo Games in 2021.

One of the artists on display is French photographer Vincent Rosenblatt, who has been documenting “baile funk” for 15 years in a sensual body of work that was also exhibited in Paris recently.

He started shooting funk parties around the time Rio officially declared funk part of the city’s cultural heritage, in 2009.

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But the music “had to fight” to get there, he says: the same day the city council adopted the designation, it also revoked a law restricting funk parties.

LIKE A ‘PHOENIX’

Funk music is about “day-to-day life in a favela, teen trends, slang,” says anthropologist and filmmaker Emilio Domingos, the screenwriter for a 2020 Netflix documentary about Anitta.

“The lyrics talk about the favela as a place of pride.”

But the songs are also tinged with references to the drug trafficking and violence that permeate the favelas.

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That has fed the stigma the genre faces.

Ironically, just as funk is booming on the world stage, “baile funk” parties are growing less common in Brazil.

“Funk moves a lot of money, it creates jobs, it opens up important debates and has the power to exert a positive influence,” says Machado, the writer.

But “it also faces a lot of prejudice, racism, machismo and elitism.”

Rosenblatt, the photographer, agrees.

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But “funk is like the phoenix: the more they try to repress it, the more it will be reborn somewhere else,” he says.

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How Wasim Akram keeps himself fit and energetic?

How Wasim Akram keeps himself fit and energetic?

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How Wasim Akram keeps himself fit and energetic?

Cricketer and commentator Wasim Akram has taken to social media to share insights into his morning routine and breakfast habits, revealing the secret behind his fitness despite battling diabetes. 

In a video on his social media accounts, the cricket star said he rises at 6am every morning, administering six units of insulin alongside. He elaborated that his day typically starts with a brisk 8-kilometre walk after dropping his daughter at school. 

“I have been living with diabetes for 25 years,” Akram emphasised in a crucial video message, highlighting his daily struggle and dedication to maintaining his health.

He said that he “rises at 6am every morning, administering six units of insulin alongside.” 

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Currently, in Melbourne, Akram stated that he was recording the video at 10am local time while having his breakfast. Before his meal, he had already administered another six units of insulin.

Detailing the contents of his breakfast table, he explained that his wife had prepared low-fat yogurt for him along with some bananas, blueberries, and muesli, which help regulate sugar levels throughout the day.

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