Fashion
Boom time for menswear as Paris Fashion Week returns
Boom time for menswear as Paris Fashion Week returns
The fashion juggernaut returns to Paris this week, with Saint Laurent rejoining the line-up and menswear on a hot streak, even if the industry remains wary of economic headwinds.
The changing world of menswear is evident on red carpets around the world, where the likes of Timothee Chalamet and Harry Styles have helped redefine male style, ditching monochrome tuxedos in favour of daring outfits and bright colours.
Just last week, Vogue declared that “the night belonged to menswear” at the Golden Globes, and stores have been reporting unprecedented growth in the sector for months.
So the buzz is deafening around the menswear shows hitting Paris from Tuesday, boosted by the return of two big hitters in Saint Laurent on Tuesday s opening night, and John Galliano s Maison Margiela closing the week next Sunday.
Saint Laurent has not presented a men s show in the official calendar since Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello took the reins in 2016, preferring one-off appearances in exotic locations such as Marrakesh and Venice.
Succession talk
In Milan last week — where fashion shows have not even finished as the industry caravan decamps for Paris — the talk was all about who would succeed flamboyant creative director Alessandro Michele at Gucci following his recent surprise departure.
In Paris, the big unanswered question is who will take over at Louis Vuitton following the early death of Virgil Abloh in November 2021.
The label got fashionista tongues wagging when it announced that Thursday s show is being handled by wunderkind Colm Dillane, the man behind hot young Brooklyn label KidSuper — along with an accompanying film shot by French director Michel Gondry.
While many are worried about the impact of possible recessions, tightening environmental regulations and inflationary costs, menswear is seen as a bright spot.
“Saint Laurent, Gucci and Givenchy are working almost better in men s than women s at the moment,” said Alice Feillard, director of buying for Paris department store Galeries Lafayette.
“We ve been seeing this exponential growth for two or three years… It s really taking off,” she added.
New field of expression
Even men s undies are gaining ground on the female market.
Male underwear was up 3.3 percent in the first 10 months of 2022 to 400 million euros ($435 million), against 2.5 percent growth in women s lingerie (to a still dominant 1.5 million euros), according to figures from the Salon International de la Lingerie, which is held in Paris this month.
“Menswear has greatly evolved in recent years,” said luxury expert Serge Carreira of Sciences Po university.
“It has created a major new field of expression, innovation and research for the houses.”
Givenchy notably abandoned haute couture and took up menswear after the arrival in 2020 of US designer Matthew Williams, known for his luxury streetwear.
They stage their catwalk show on Wednesday, with key rival Dior strutting out on Friday.
One name that often comes up as a possible successor at Louis Vuitton is Grace Wales Bonner, who presents her own show on Tuesday.
Grace Wales Bonner is often mentioned as a possible successor at Louis Vuitton
Grace
She is part of a growing trend of women designers who focus on dressing men, along with fellow Brit, Bianca Saunders.
There is also excitement for the return of award-winning US designer Emily Bode, known for using recycled material, who stayed away from Paris during the pandemic.
Fashion
PM Shehbaz Shahrif says prayers at Masjid-e-Nabvi (PBUH)
PM Shehbaz Shahrif says prayers at Masjid-e-Nabvi (PBUH)
Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif said Isha prayer and nawafil at Riazul Jannah in Masjid-e-Nabwi (Mosque of the Prophet) during his visit to perform Umrah on Saturday.
Earlier, he visited the Roza-e-Rasool (Prophet Muhammad PBUH). He prayed for the development and prosperity of the country, as well as for the Muslims of Palestine and Indian Occupied Kashmir.
Punjab Chief Minister Maryam Nawaz also visited the Roza-e-Rasool during and prayed for the progress and prosperity of the country.
Madina Governor Prince Salman Bin Sultan welcomed Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif on arrival in the holy city.
Read more: PM Shehbaz touches down in Saudi Arabia on a three-day official visit
Fashion
Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week
Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week
Florals bloomed on the catwalk at Giorgio Armani on Sunday, adorning winter outfits and accessories as the veteran Italian designer presented his latest collection for his main line at Milan Fashion Week.
Armani, affectionately known as King Giorgio in Italy, opened the autumn/winter 2024 womenswear show, called “Winter Flowers”, with fluid looks in light grey and brown – jackets and trousers, accessorised with floral blue scarves or sashes.
The floral theme was omnipresent in the show with floral prints or embroidery adorning jackets, dresses, blouses, hats and bags.
Floral prints or embroidery in pink, blue and green added colour to dark creations in blue or black.
“The flowers are a sign of a better season coming and I really liked the contrast – there are no flowers in winter, I created them,” Armani, 89, told reporters.
For the evening, sequined floral embroidery shimmered on jackets, sheer tops and dresses.
Armani closed the show with a selection of strapless frocks with sparkling flower decorations.
The designer presented the latest collection for his second line, Emporio Armani, on Thursday.
Milan Fashion Week runs until Monday, with editors and buyers then heading to Paris for the last leg of the month-long seasonal catwalk calendar.
Fashion
Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week
Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week
Ami designer Alexandre Mattiussi added a contemporary flair to classic bourgeois styles for his fall/winter collection, presented on the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week.
Men and women models marched out of giant double doors — the set was a towering building facade — parading long tailored coats, fitted suit jackets and glittering tops.
The idea was to evoke life in a Paris apartment building, Mattiussi explained after the show, when he was swarmed by guests.
“There was the idea of doing something very sophisticated, very evening-like,” he said.
Dressier looks included a trim, fake-fur top with three-quarter-length sleeves, a shimmering gold dress with plunging V-neck, and for men, a sheer grey tank top paired with high-waisted trousers.
Models included actors Diane Kruger, Laetitia Casta, Lou Doillon, Andres Velencoso and Audrey Marnay — prompting murmurings of surprise from the audience as they walked by.
A winner of the French fashion prize Andam, Mattiussi founded the fast-growing label Ami in Paris in 2011. Within four years, the brand opened a store in Tokyo, followed by Beijing in 2018 and New York in 2021.
Paris Fashion Week’s fall/winter menswear shows run through Jan 21, and include presentations from some of the industry’s largest brands, including LVMH, opens new tab labels Dior and Louis Vuitton, as well as Hermes, opens new tab, Valentino and Balmain, along with dozens of smaller labels including Sean Suen and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi.
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Jawn Staff
July 7, 2017 at 2:50 pm
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