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Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi ready to party in Milan

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Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi ready to party in Milan

Milan is ready to party, with menswear shows for next spring and winter focused on nighttime tailoring with playful accents. Think sparkles and glitter, fun silhouettes that invite shadow dancing, and sexy peeks at the skin with tailoring tricks once reserved for the female wardrobe.

Some highlights from Saturday’s shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week.

DOLCE & GABBANA BACK TO BLACK

If you just looked at colour, it was back to basics at Dolce&Gabbana: The entire collection for next winter was in mostly black monochromes, all the better for nighttime play. Grey and white monochromes played a supporting role.
While light on bling, the looks were anything but basic. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a collection built around tailoring, with the late-night synchronic club beats in mind.

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Long overcoats or dramatic capes will get you to the club door. Inside, men’s corsetry, obi belts and cummerbunds cinch the waist, a silhouette that is mimicked in the dramatic hourglass tailoring of coats and jackets with curved waistlines and broad shoulders. A strobe light picks up the sparkles and glitter on garments, and sheer tops and muscle knitwear show off physiques.
Machine Gun Kelly and Italian singer Blanco were among the design duo’s front-row guests.

FLY AWAY WITH EMPORIO ARMANI

Giorgio Armani has been on the global fashion map for more than four decades. His latest collection for Emporio Armani traced a literal map of his adopted Milan, with models walking the perimeter of a circular runway giving a bird’s-eye view of a map of the fashion capital’s historic centre.

The collection was inspired by aviation, and there were tailoring traces from the golden era of flight when dandies like Charles Lindbergh made history with solo crossings of the Atlantic.

A belted grey jumpsuit with a furry collar, aviator’s cap and thick boots set the tone. Once he lands, there are muted plaid suits with trousers cropped just above the boot — the invention of the season. Gear is stowed in satchels and nautical bags.

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Cosy knitwear paired with leather trousers and jacket, some with antique finishes, cut an adventurous silhouette. But the real dandy comes out in colourful daywear, including a beautiful wrap coat in elegant camel, velvet jackets in deep hues and silken shirts worn with foulards in bright accent colours like magenta, purple and mauve.

Leather harnesses and utility belts added an edge. Pouches are belted on top of boots. Mirrored aviator glasses complete the look.
Armani, 88, good-humoredly picked up a pouch that had dropped from a model as he greeted the crowd at the end of the show.

FENDI FLASHES SOME SKIN

The Fendi collection for next winter flashes skin in ways once reserved for women.
One-shoulder tops — both knit and button down – bare skin to give sexy drama to the looks. Knitwear was super sheer, barely there. A little layering restored some modesty, for the office, but could easily be undone for an evening transition.
Long coats incorporated a wrap-around asymmetrical cape, a tailoring trick mimicked in trousers with a wraparound one-sided skirt. The effect was cosy and enveloping, offering a cocoon as we venture back out into the world.

Fendi’s whimsy was on full display in the knit caps: one shaped like a cartoon-cool wig featuring a perky flip, or another beanie with fringe on the back. Capes and sweeping coats and scarves are likewise finished with fringe. Bombers had an antique, worn feel. The colour palate was mostly low-key tones of grey, oatmeal and burnt umber set off mauve and lavender. Graphite beading caught the light on evening looks.

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K-WAY CELEBRATES PARISIAN HERITAGE

The Franco-Italian activewear brand K-Way imported a bit of its Parisian birthplace as the backdrop to showcase a new collection as it charts a transition to a lifestyle brand.

K-Way’s trademark packable raincoats were inspired when brand founder Leon-Claude Duhamel spied two children wearing red Nylon raincoats while sitting at the Cafe de la Paix on a rainy day in 1965. To honour that heritage, the Italian owners borrowed original cafe tables and wicker seating from the Parisian landmark. Duhamel himself, now in his 80s, joined the fashion crowd sipping champagne and nibbling cream pastries in the recreated cafe.

Sales vice president Lorenzo Boglione, whose family controls the BasicNet parent company, is helping the company navigate the brand’s transition, with plans to produce technical gear for sailing and skiing.
“We really want to remember where we come from and celebrate that moment. We have to remember where we come from to know where to go,” Boglione said. “We want to be colourful, we want to be functional, and we want to be modern.”

That means not just focusing on outwear. The new collection included cropped puffer jackets in tight accordion pleats, Yeti-style short coats with matching boots that layer over slim body suits or quilted short shorts and tops. Long puffer coats, including as enveloping as a sleeping bag, paired with detachable hoods or furry collars. The brand’s distinctive zipper acts as a logo, providing accents along with function. The colour palate hewed toward K-Way’s traditional orange and blue, with some white and green.

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Imane Ayissi adds African touch to Paris haute couture fashion week

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Imane Ayissi adds African touch to Paris haute couture fashion week

Imane Ayissi wove African textiles into his haute couture collection shown in Paris on Thursday, mixing raffia-lined garments in bright colours with dresses coated in sequins or airy silk fringes.

“This is a window to show techniques of African artisans,” said Ayissi.

Models walked down a runway in an ornate mansion near the Arc de Triomphe, parading sculptural dresses and sequin-coated tops that were trimmed with raffia.

A fitted minidress in splashes of orange, red and green featured a traditional tie-dye technique, with a sprinkling of orange Swarovski crystal embellishments added for sparkle.

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“We’ve gone through some very difficult times, with the COVID-19 pandemic that was hard for everyone; it’s time to try to rebound,” said Ayissi, gesturing towards a hot pink dress.

The Cameroon-born designer, who is based in Paris, is currently featured in the Victoria & Albert Museum exhibit “Africa Fashion” in London.

Haute couture fashion week in Paris, which wound up on Thursday, features some of the most prestigious fashion houses, including Christian Dior (DIOR.PA) and Chanel.

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Doja Cat stuns fans with red body paint and 30,000 crystals at Paris Fashion Week

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Doja Cat stuns fans with red body paint and 30,000 crystals at Paris Fashion Week

During the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show at Paris Fashion Week on Jan 23, 2023, Doja Cat made a bold entrance, adorned in red jewels and makeup from head to toe, leaving a lasting impression on the audience.

The eye-catching outfit, which was custom-designed by the fashion house’s creative director Daniel Roseberry, was brought to life by makeup artist Pat McGrath, whose team spent almost five hours completing the look.

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Chanel hits playful note at haute couture show in Paris

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Chanel hits playful note at haute couture show in Paris

Chanel creative director Virginie Viard took a spirited direction for the French fashion house’s spring haute couture show, sending models out of hulking, stylized animals crafted from cardboard and wood.

They emerged, one at a time, circling the towering statues like ringmasters, in bouncy, cheerleader miniskirts, floral jumpsuits and shimmery tweed jackets.

The opening look set the tone – an ivory, double breasted coat, buttoned snuggly across the chest before flaring out, the feathery fringe of a miniskirt poking out below.

On her head, the model wore a black top hat, its brim gently sloped, while flat sling-back shoes accentuated her long, bare legs.
Viard pared down the superfluous often associated with haute couture, offering mostly trim silhouettes, with just enough flounce, when it came to fuller skirts, or restricting the color palette when it came embellished looks, like a full length ivory coat covered in ruffled pleats.

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An elephant-shaped structure rolled in for the finale, and out stepped the bride, in an airy, ivory tulle bustier dress that fell below the knee, paired with gold boots that rose above her ankles.

During her bow, Viard drew artist Xavier Veilhan, who designed the set, out from the risers while the audience cheered.

The Paris haute couture shows, which include some of the most prestigious names in fashion like Georgio Armani Prive, Jean Paul Gaultier and LVMH-owned (LVMH.PA) Christian Dior, run through Thursday.

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