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Armani, Kapoor bring tranquil close to Milan fashion week

Armani, Kapoor bring tranquil close to Milan fashion week

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Armani, Kapoor bring tranquil close to Milan fashion week
GLOBALTIMESPAKISTAN

Milan Fashion Week closed four days of mostly menswear previews for next fall and winter on a note of tranquility.

Italian fashion world stalwart Giorgio Armani took his admirers inside Milan’s hidden courtyards, islands of calm concealed from general view within the walls of the city’s austere neoclassical architecture.

Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor, a relative Milan newcomer, hopes to promote an interior journey with a new collection in which he seeks to reconcile alter-egos – be they romantic, aggressive or pensive – as a way of healing.

While creating similar moods, the presented designs couldn’t have been more aesthetically opposite: one a study in tailoring and muted hues, the other an explosion of color on silhouettes that mix the oversized with the petite.

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Highlights from Monday’s shows:

DHRUV KAPOOR PROMOTES HEALING

Kapoor has a message of radical self-acceptance in his collection, which combined floral prints promoting stillness, cartoon images of Godzilla representing aggression and lace details for romanticism.

The designer, through his unisex collection dubbed “The Embracer,” advocates embracing all of our parts, even those viewed negatively. Not that he thinks the solution lies in wardrobing.

“It’s a very simple process. Look in the mirror and tell yourself, ‘I love you.’ And see how the magic starts to shift. You just need to admire yourself just the way you are,” Kapoor said backstage, adding that he has felt a dramatic shift since adopting the practice. “I don’t know how it comes. I never dwell on the how.”

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The collection includes a fitted, ripped denim dress over loose jeans. Broad-shoulder suit jackets were combined with tight trousers that flare into a bell bottom. Oversized sweatshirts were layered with cotton tunics and a sheer lace pant. Godzilla raged on the front of a button-down shirt or tight-fitting dress, while a silver pillow jacket had reptilian spikes down the back.

“Godzilla also has a very negative, monstrous thing attached to it,” Kapoor said. But that should not impede acceptance, he insisted.

Crystals on knitwear, suits and jackets hold energy that Kapoor said can be activated to have a positive impact on the wearer’s life. Instructions are included with the garments.

Models traversed the Tiepolo room in the 18th century Clerici Palace beneath images that included demons, walking to the beat of modems connecting mixed with classical music and hip hop. The mashup gives “us a whiff of the past and the future,” Kapoor said. “And we are birthing a new present.”

Kapoor also promotes healing for the environment. Nearly two-thirds of his collection is either upcycled, employing leftover textiles that otherwise would be discarded, or recycled. For this season, all of his suit fabrics are made from recycled plastics.

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ARMANI’S HIDDEN MILAN

Hidden from view in Italy’s frenetic fashion and finance capital are quiet gardens ensconced in Milan’s courtyards.

Giorgio Armani suggests these are places to pause and take stock before emerging for business or play, this season on soft footwear with rubber soles.

Models walked slowly to a soundtrack of Italian pianist-composer Ludovico Einaudi soundtrack while wearing suits and separates that were deeply textured, projecting self-assuredness in the 88-year-old designer’s trademark soft-silhouette.

The color palette consisted of soft earthy tones set off by olive and forest green with a surge of crimson in sportswear and a final smattering of weekend dandy looks. Flannel cargo pants were paired with soft sweaters. Disciplined double-breasted suits befitted a negotiating table. Big gake furs, including one in tiger print, lightened the quiet mood.

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The show closed with couples dressed in shimmering black evening dresses and formal suits with silk or velvet details chattering down the runway, as if they were leaving a party.

Armani conceded that flashes of skin on other runways this season had a sensuality. But he stuck by his conviction: “You can wear anything you want, but when you are at an important table, you need to wear an important suit,” he said.

His one transgression: ties that arch under the knot, as if pulled loose, and worn tucked into vests, “to give space to relax.”

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Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

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Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

Florals bloomed on the catwalk at Giorgio Armani on Sunday, adorning winter outfits and accessories as the veteran Italian designer presented his latest collection for his main line at Milan Fashion Week.

Armani, affectionately known as King Giorgio in Italy, opened the autumn/winter 2024 womenswear show, called “Winter Flowers”, with fluid looks in light grey and brown – jackets and trousers, accessorised with floral blue scarves or sashes.

The floral theme was omnipresent in the show with floral prints or embroidery adorning jackets, dresses, blouses, hats and bags.

Floral prints or embroidery in pink, blue and green added colour to dark creations in blue or black.

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“The flowers are a sign of a better season coming and I really liked the contrast – there are no flowers in winter, I created them,” Armani, 89, told reporters.

For the evening, sequined floral embroidery shimmered on jackets, sheer tops and dresses.

Armani closed the show with a selection of strapless frocks with sparkling flower decorations.

The designer presented the latest collection for his second line, Emporio Armani, on Thursday.

Milan Fashion Week runs until Monday, with editors and buyers then heading to Paris for the last leg of the month-long seasonal catwalk calendar.

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Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

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Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

Ami designer Alexandre Mattiussi added a contemporary flair to classic bourgeois styles for his fall/winter collection, presented on the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week.

Men and women models marched out of giant double doors — the set was a towering building facade — parading long tailored coats, fitted suit jackets and glittering tops.

The idea was to evoke life in a Paris apartment building, Mattiussi explained after the show, when he was swarmed by guests.

“There was the idea of doing something very sophisticated, very evening-like,” he said.

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Dressier looks included a trim, fake-fur top with three-quarter-length sleeves, a shimmering gold dress with plunging V-neck, and for men, a sheer grey tank top paired with high-waisted trousers.

Models included actors Diane Kruger, Laetitia Casta, Lou Doillon, Andres Velencoso and Audrey Marnay — prompting murmurings of surprise from the audience as they walked by.

A winner of the French fashion prize Andam, Mattiussi founded the fast-growing label Ami in Paris in 2011. Within four years, the brand opened a store in Tokyo, followed by Beijing in 2018 and New York in 2021.

Paris Fashion Week’s fall/winter menswear shows run through Jan 21, and include presentations from some of the industry’s largest brands, including LVMH, opens new tab labels Dior and Louis Vuitton, as well as Hermes, opens new tab, Valentino and Balmain, along with dozens of smaller labels including Sean Suen and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi.

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Louis Vuitton opens Paris Fashion Week with Pharrell Williams’ styles from American West

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Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week with Louis Vuitton’s spring menswear show on Tuesday night, lining the catwalk with sharp, elaborately embellished American West outfits.

Native American drumming signaled the start of the show, with models strutting in silver tipped cowboy boots and denim chaps, wide-brimmed cowboy hats, and silky western shirts with pointy collars.

Turquoise studs decorated suits and Louis Vuitton logos glittered on sequined jackets.

“The Louis Vuitton dandy evolves through the American western tradition of dressing up,” the show notes said, listing details of handbags designed with artists of the Dakota and Lakota nations, and shoes made with the Timberland label.

The show was the designer’s third since he took on creative direction for the label’s menswear line last year. The LVMH-owned label, the world’s biggest fashion brand, has opened about 50 temporary stores worldwide to showcase the new merchandise.

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Williams’ blockbuster debut took place on the Pont Neuf in Paris last June, in a street party with performances by Williams and Jay-Z. He took to Hong Kong in November for his second runway show, with sailor suits and Hawaiian prints, along a waterfront promenade overlooking the city’s skyline after dark.

LVMH will release annual financial results on Jan 25, revealing details of the industry bellwether’s performance over the key holiday season. Demand for luxury apparel has softened in recent months as shoppers reined back on high-end purchases with the rising cost of living.

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