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Dior dazzles with Josephine Baker-inspired haute couture show in Paris

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Dior dazzles with Josephine Baker-inspired haute couture show in Paris

Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to Josephine Baker with her spring haute couture show on Monday, sending out a dazzling lineup featuring golden jaquards, crushed velvet and beaded fringes that swayed and sparkled down the runway.

“She immediately understood the power of fashion,” Chiuri said of Baker, the famed French-American jazz singer and dancer.

The designer looked beyond Baker s stage style, also considering her love of suits and the uniforms she wore as a member of the resistance in France during the Second World War, as well as more intimate garments, including body-enveloping robes worn after a performance.

The show of the LVMH-owned (LVMH.PA) label opened with a luxurious robe-like coat, thrown over a satin bodysuit. A black velvet jumpsuit followed, strapless, the legs cut wide, before moving into a series of enveloping coats worn on top of long, pleated skirts.

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Artwork by Mickalene Thomas lined the set, larger-than-life portraits of Black women, including Donyale Luna, Eartha Kitt, and Naomi Sims who built on the path opened up by Baker, said Thomas.

She sought to depict the beauty and confidence of these women, Thomas told Reuters, describing the challenge of whittling the list down to 13.

“All of these women were socially active and either they used their stage, their voice or their performance to really tell a story or a narrative about their personal life and about also the demographic that they were from,” said Thomas.

The exhibit, which is set up in a temporary show space at the Rodin Museum in Paris is open to the public through January 29.

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Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

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Giorgio Armani catwalk blooms with florals at Milan Fashion Week

Florals bloomed on the catwalk at Giorgio Armani on Sunday, adorning winter outfits and accessories as the veteran Italian designer presented his latest collection for his main line at Milan Fashion Week.

Armani, affectionately known as King Giorgio in Italy, opened the autumn/winter 2024 womenswear show, called “Winter Flowers”, with fluid looks in light grey and brown – jackets and trousers, accessorised with floral blue scarves or sashes.

The floral theme was omnipresent in the show with floral prints or embroidery adorning jackets, dresses, blouses, hats and bags.

Floral prints or embroidery in pink, blue and green added colour to dark creations in blue or black.

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“The flowers are a sign of a better season coming and I really liked the contrast – there are no flowers in winter, I created them,” Armani, 89, told reporters.

For the evening, sequined floral embroidery shimmered on jackets, sheer tops and dresses.

Armani closed the show with a selection of strapless frocks with sparkling flower decorations.

The designer presented the latest collection for his second line, Emporio Armani, on Thursday.

Milan Fashion Week runs until Monday, with editors and buyers then heading to Paris for the last leg of the month-long seasonal catwalk calendar.

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Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

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Ami updates bourgeois styles for fall runway show at Paris Fashion Week

Ami designer Alexandre Mattiussi added a contemporary flair to classic bourgeois styles for his fall/winter collection, presented on the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week.

Men and women models marched out of giant double doors — the set was a towering building facade — parading long tailored coats, fitted suit jackets and glittering tops.

The idea was to evoke life in a Paris apartment building, Mattiussi explained after the show, when he was swarmed by guests.

“There was the idea of doing something very sophisticated, very evening-like,” he said.

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Dressier looks included a trim, fake-fur top with three-quarter-length sleeves, a shimmering gold dress with plunging V-neck, and for men, a sheer grey tank top paired with high-waisted trousers.

Models included actors Diane Kruger, Laetitia Casta, Lou Doillon, Andres Velencoso and Audrey Marnay — prompting murmurings of surprise from the audience as they walked by.

A winner of the French fashion prize Andam, Mattiussi founded the fast-growing label Ami in Paris in 2011. Within four years, the brand opened a store in Tokyo, followed by Beijing in 2018 and New York in 2021.

Paris Fashion Week’s fall/winter menswear shows run through Jan 21, and include presentations from some of the industry’s largest brands, including LVMH, opens new tab labels Dior and Louis Vuitton, as well as Hermes, opens new tab, Valentino and Balmain, along with dozens of smaller labels including Sean Suen and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi.

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Louis Vuitton opens Paris Fashion Week with Pharrell Williams’ styles from American West

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Pharrell Williams kicked off Paris Fashion Week with Louis Vuitton’s spring menswear show on Tuesday night, lining the catwalk with sharp, elaborately embellished American West outfits.

Native American drumming signaled the start of the show, with models strutting in silver tipped cowboy boots and denim chaps, wide-brimmed cowboy hats, and silky western shirts with pointy collars.

Turquoise studs decorated suits and Louis Vuitton logos glittered on sequined jackets.

“The Louis Vuitton dandy evolves through the American western tradition of dressing up,” the show notes said, listing details of handbags designed with artists of the Dakota and Lakota nations, and shoes made with the Timberland label.

The show was the designer’s third since he took on creative direction for the label’s menswear line last year. The LVMH-owned label, the world’s biggest fashion brand, has opened about 50 temporary stores worldwide to showcase the new merchandise.

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Williams’ blockbuster debut took place on the Pont Neuf in Paris last June, in a street party with performances by Williams and Jay-Z. He took to Hong Kong in November for his second runway show, with sailor suits and Hawaiian prints, along a waterfront promenade overlooking the city’s skyline after dark.

LVMH will release annual financial results on Jan 25, revealing details of the industry bellwether’s performance over the key holiday season. Demand for luxury apparel has softened in recent months as shoppers reined back on high-end purchases with the rising cost of living.

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